![]() A factory ring-and-pinion setup is about $530, plus bearings, plus setting it all back up. “If it whines as you drive, it’s a $1,000 fix,” says Bob, “not including the LSD, if the car has one. Typically the ring and pinions haven’t been maintained and most diffs that Drift-Office has seen haven’t even had a fluid change in 20 years. The rear differential is also a contentious area. Bob says he’s also been actively replacing fuel pumps due to contamination from rust particles. The fuel gauge sending unit is either always inaccurate or broken. In order of most common leaks distributor, front main seal, cam seals, rear main seal and finally valve covers.” Fuel tank rust is a concern. Also be on the lookout for orifice leaks. Most of them are already on their way out. “You are looking at a 25-year old motor that’s a quarter century. After checking the body and chassis for rust, Bob says brace for motor issues. from Drift-Office, an Auburn, Washington-based tuning shop, could write a book. Quirks & Problems: When it comes to AE86 problems, Bob W. The SR5 has a carbureted 4AC engine while the GT-S sports an electronically fuel-injected 4A-GE rated at 122 horsepower. The big difference between a GT-S and an SR5-trimmed Corolla is all under the hood. The big draw here is the rear-wheel-drive of this era Corolla. The Sprinter Trueno came with pop-up headlights like our US models, while the Corolla Levin has a fixed lamp design. In Japan, the AE86 came in many variations, including two different front ends. Original Goods: The original drift weapon from the touge days in Japan, star of Initial D and an icon on both sides of the Pacific, the AE86 Corolla GT-S is still a primetime player all these years later. JDM counterpart: toyota sprinter Trueno, Corolla Levin Remember, it’s okay to go for the glory but know the car’s story. Ultimately, the project platform purchase is a multi-axis balancing act and to get you off on the right foot, we offer this guide of popular platforms with an under-$10,000 entry fee. ![]() The bottom line is to buy the strongest individual car, weighing its pros and cons against price. Is body condition important? Do you care about the interior? A race car will be stripped out anyway but a street car will need its creature comforts. A good game plan will ensure you get the best price and the best car. If you plan to drive the car then engine condition and mechanical maintenance are critical. Will the car be used as a driver during the project or will it be left at home in the garage? Does the plan call for a turbo conversion or motor swap? These questions will dictate the importance of the engine-a non-running car will cost less. There will be some universal compromises, maintenance versus mods, mileage versus price or choosing the lesser of two evils. Selecting a project car is a major investment and a proper plan will really give the build-up traction and save some pain in the wallet.
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